There is no one way for you to be and no one way for you to look.
Today’s formalwear derives from longstanding traditions that help make special events memorable. Knowing the basics will help you to express yourself and your sense of occasion.
Black Tie: “Black Tie” on the invitation really means the popular tuxedo, also known as a dinner suit. Originally a less formal alternative to “Tails” (tradition credits one Lorillard Griswold of Tuxedo Park, New York with its invention), the tuxedo has become the outfit of choice for most of today’s celebrations. The classic black bow tie designates a tuxedo and always looks right, but it is often replaced by a wide variety of neckwear. A white dinner jacket is equivalent to the tuxedo and an option in summer or tropical climates. Because it is truly an icon of men’s style, most designers offer several takes on the tuxedo. Look for peak lapels or notched – double-breasted or single – longer jackets and not so long – one button, two button, three button, four and five button styles – plain or textured – corded or striped.
Full Dress Tails: The Full Dress Suit, known simply as “Tails” is worn to the most formal evenings when the invitation specifies “White Tie”. In its purest form the outfit consists of a white piqué bow tie and matching white vest with a wing collar shirt, an unbuttoned black tailcoat and black trousers. Some grooms will bend or even make the rules for their wedding, using “Tails” to stand out from the rest of their party, often embellishing with colour or patterned accessories.
Morning Suit: Appropriate for formal events that begin before 6 p.m., this outfit consists of a long cutaway jacket, vest and necktie or ascot in a striped or neat pattern. Pants are striped or match the jacket. Top it off with a proper top hat in black or grey if you are so inclined. Bend the rules a little. Kick up the colour quotient on the accessories.
Black Suit: Falling between business attire and formalwear, the black suit can take you to many , less than strictly formal forums. Tommy Hilfiger likes to treat it as a “Tuxedo Without the Satin”.
Double-breasted: Because it is kept buttoned at all times, the double-breasted tuxedo needs no vest or cummerbund. However, some jackets are designed to be worn with vests to add an extra element of colour and texture.
Single-breasted: The single-breasted tuxedo is completed by a vest or a cummerbund. The traditional cummerbund design has pleats that open upward. Today the cummerbund has all but given way to the vest.
Lapels: Lapels of different shapes provide subtle variations on the tuxedo theme. The peaked lapel derives from the formal tailcoat, while the shawl collar echoes the more casual smoking jacket. Today some of the most popular tuxedos have a notched lapel. Lapels are often made of satin or corded materials and some are even self-faced.
Shirts: Wing-collar shirts are a must with Full Dress “tails” and the Cutaway when an ascot is worn. With tuxedos either the wing or turned-down collar is appropriate. The formal shirt is closed with studs, the cuff with cuff links.
Accessories: Vests and ties in many textures, patterns and colours offer a variety of ways to add distinctive touches to traditional formalwear. Some accessories provide subtle accents, while others make strong, colourful statements of individuality.
Footwear: Patent leather is still the most formal finish and is a must with “white tie”. Oxfords rather than traditional opera slippers are the most popular shoes today. Styling should be simple, and comfort, especially for dancing, is very important.
Long-established traditions indicate what’s right in formalwear for all types of occasions. But there’s room within the rules for individual variations, so you can put together a look that’s not only right by traditional standards, but also right for you.